6/28
Clayton NM to Mosquero NM
89 miles
Rode in the van
Given that I had spent and estimate five hours crying the night before, I decided not to bike today. I just kind of kept my head down, packed my stuff up and got in. At route meeting Shayan, who was in charge of town facts for the day, told us that ‘mosquero’ means swarm of mosquitos, so everyone knew right away that this was going to be a good day. We were also warned about an extreme climb at mile 78 that would be harder than anything we had encountered so far.
The landscape was desolate and we had first lunch at the only tree in New Mexico. I fail to understand why its the this state is the ‘land of enchantment’ given that the only thing I’ve seen are huge spaces of tan land dotted with shrubs. The ground is flat and barren with some blooming cactuses and cattle. All day there were large hills in the distance and, given that we had been forewarned about the huge climb, I spent most of the day trying to figure out which one we would be going up.
Hanging out during first lunch cheered me up and then I started to have a really good day. Maddi was driving the van, as she was a bit sick and not well enough to ride, and we ended up having some really great conversations. She’s had some unorthodox schooling, and I got to hear about it, which was fascinating. We also talked about her brother in SF and her acupuncturist dad. She’s a pretty interesting person.
We stopped for second lunch at the only other tree in New Mexico, which is not as nice as the first, and everyone geared themselves up for the climb. It switchbacked up the side of the hill and, although the views were beautiful, it was a struggle for everyone. On the way up we could see our second lunch spot, about 10 miles in the distance. Hannah got off her bike and just walked, passing a few people on the way up because the bikes moved so slowly uphill. Liz got off her bike until Rhys began circling her, telling her to get back on and encouraging her to finish. When we passed Angela in the van she was working so hard and using her arms so much that she did not acknowledge us in the least and we wondered for a moment if she was alright (usually people wave, pump their fists, or smile at the van when it passes).
Once we got to the top I was excited for higher elevation and a nicer landscape, but the reward never came. The landscape was a much lighter tan, but even more desolate than down below. This appears to be because of the harsh winds on the top. The riders had to content with terrible headwinds as soon as they summitted that were worse than the hill had been. By the time everyone arrived at our host site they were beat. Most people just got in and laid on the floor of the gym to recover.
Mosquero is a town of less than 100 people, and we stayed at their school. I have never been in a place so small. The school covers middle and high school and, although they have an excellent gym, it takes kids from all seven grades to make a basketball team. Their graduating classes seem to range from 2-8 kids. Amazingly, Kirsten went to school with a girl who is from this town who lives at home, so they hung out. This woman wants to take over her family ranch and stay in the area, which I find fascinating. I just cannot imagine what it would be like to be from such a small, rural place.